Compressor

When the ice machine is powered but still “not cooling,” the compressor is the component that turns electrical energy into refrigeration. A failing compressor may run noisy with low differential pressure, draw high amps, or refuse to start at all often reported as “not turning on” once the overload opens and the unit goes quiet. If the machine is “not turning on” after a short run, confirm whether the compressor is actually opening on internal overload and then resetting. Diagnostics start with basics: verify supply voltage, then check winding resistance and insulation (megohm) to rule out grounded windings. Watch amperage at startup and under load—locked rotor or a compressor that hums and stalls points to internal mechanical failure. If pressures equalize too quickly or the compressor can’t build head pressure, you’re dealing with worn valves or loss of pumping efficiency. Use an amp probe to compare LRA to nameplate; a compressor that hits LRA and stalls is often mechanically tight or seized. Replacing the compressor solves the issue by restoring proper compression ratio and refrigerant circulation. That brings back stable suction and discharge pressures, correct evaporator temperature pull-down, and predictable freeze times. It also eliminates repeat nuisance trips that look like electrical problems but are really the compressor overheating internally. Compressor 1858421900 replacement should include oil management and contamination control—burnouts require extra cleanup to prevent repeat failure. After replacement, treat the system properly: install a new drier, evacuate deep, charge to spec, and confirm condenser airflow. A final cycle test should show strong pull-down, normal amp draw, and consistent ice thickness without “not cooling” callbacks. On startup, verify discharge temperature isn’t climbing abnormally fast; that can indicate airflow problems you should correct before leaving.