Power switch

A worn power switch can mimic bigger failures by cutting line voltage intermittently. The call usually sounds like “not turning on,” dead lights, or a machine that loses power mid-cycle. Inside the switch, contacts can pit and carbonize, creating heat and voltage drop that’s hard to spot unless you test under load. If the switch body feels hot or the rocker is sticky, that’s often carbon buildup inside the contacts causing voltage drop under load. Diagnose by checking line voltage on both sides of the switch while toggling it. If input voltage is solid but output is inconsistent, or the switch feels loose/overheated, it’s done. Look for discoloration at the terminals and any signs of arcing common when switches are operated with wet hands or in steamy rooms. Measure voltage drop across the switch while the compressor is running any significant drop explains “not turning on” and random resets. Replacing the power switch solves the problem by restoring a clean, low-resistance path for line power. That eliminates nuisance “no power” reports and prevents hidden voltage drop that can cause compressors to stall or controls to reboot. It’s also a low-cost fix that improves overall reliability. Power switch 1854000101 is a clean fix when incoming power is good but the unit acts “dead” at the control box. This is especially important on sites with frequent cleanings, where moisture and chemicals accelerate contact wear inside the switch. After install, verify the switch is rated correctly, terminals are tight, and the unit powers up every time. Then proceed with normal operational checks knowing your primary power path is sound. After replacement, re-check terminal torque and wire condition; loose spades will recreate the same failure pattern.