Starting relay

A bad starting relay is one of the fastest ways to turn a simple service call into a “no ice” emergency. When this relay fails, the compressor may buzz, stall, and then the overload opens so the customer reports “not cooling,” or even “no power” after the unit sits and resets. You’ll often hear repeated clicking as the machine tries to restart. A relay that’s heat-sensitive often fails after the first successful start, which is why customers say it works “sometimes” and then goes dead. Confirm the symptom by monitoring start amperage and listening for the compressor to engage. If line voltage is present and the compressor windings test good, a relay that’s heat-sensitive or burnt internally can still prevent a clean start. Visual inspection for discoloration and a basic ohm test help, but real-world behavior (starts cold, fails hot) is the giveaway. Check for pitted terminals and loose spades; resistance at the connection can mimic a failing relay and cause “no power” symptoms downstream. Replacing the starting relay restores the correct start circuit timing, giving the compressor the extra torque it needs to overcome initial load. Once the compressor starts reliably, pressures stabilize, freeze cycles shorten, and nuisance trips stop. It’s the right fix when the machine is “not turning on” only after a short run and then magically works again later. Starting relay 1858460900 is a fast fix when the compressor hums, then the protector opens and the unit appears “not turning on.” After install, run multiple start/stop cycles and verify consistent compressor engagement. If the unit also uses a start capacitor, check that component too so you don’t send a new relay into an unhealthy start circuit. After replacement, confirm the start components aren’t oversized or mismatched—incorrect parts can shorten compressor life.