Condenser

This condenser (1880012901) is the heat exchanger that keeps head pressure in range, and it’s a common failure point in corrosive kitchens and coastal installs. When the coil develops pinholes or loses fin efficiency, techs see low charge symptoms poor ice production, longer freeze times, and “not cooling” complaints that temporarily improve after a recharge but come right back. A leaking condenser can present as “not cooling” plus oil streaks, and it often gets mistaken for an evaporator leak without a careful inspection. Before condemning it, verify the fan and airflow path are correct, then inspect the coil closely for oily residue, green corrosion, or salt buildup between fins. A leak check (electronic detector, bubble test, or UV dye if the system already has it) around the u-bends and header areas can save hours. If you find multiple leak sites, replacement is usually faster than repeated brazing. Pressure-test condenser 1880012901 with nitrogen and use soap on the headers; micro-leaks hide until the coil warms and flexes. Replacing the condenser coil solves the problem by restoring a tight sealed system and full heat-transfer area. With proper heat rejection and correct charge retained, the compressor runs cooler, pressures stabilize, and the evaporator can pull down reliably. That’s what ends the cycle of “top off and pray” service calls. If the install site uses harsh cleaners, recommend rinsing the coil after PMs chemical attack is a common root cause of repeat leaks. After replacement, evacuate thoroughly and weigh in the charge. Confirm normal pressure behavior across different ambients and verify ice thickness and harvest timing good cooling plus stable charge is the proof the leak/efficiency issue is gone. After charging, verify the condenser temperature gradient is even from inlet to outlet, confirming full heat-transfer area is active.